泰北行腳之十一 : 美斯樂 泰北義民文史館 Northern Thailand: Part 11
此文成稿於 2011.11。 夲待大城、曼谷系列登完後, 才登出泰北邊境的系列。剛好此時重遇一群失联多年的小友, 忙着班荊道故; 加上工作上也有點忙, 今天才坐下來整理這些稿子。想一想, 就不顧原來的計劃次序, 就把原稿改改, 登了再說。所以, 文中的時间性就有點錯亂, 看官莫怪。
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今天, 2011.11.11, 是美國退伍軍人節 (Veterans Day), 電視上播放著慶祝的節目。我沒有心情看, 心裡為伊拉克和亞富汗戰爭死難、受傷的軍人和他們家屬感到難過。二十多年來我都遵守美國人的習慣 (或許也可以說是他們的遊戲規則吧), 不公開談政治, 不公開談宗教。今夜心裡難過著,不得不破戒罵幾句。咱們的阿斗前總統, 小布殊, 被以副總統錢尼為首的一群政客把持, 假 9/11之名發動的以拉克戰爭, 害得多少人家破人亡。除了讓錢尼的一群人受益外, 也拖累美國的國力和經濟。可惜的是美國人為了”change”, 選了一個毫無經驗的歐巴馬, 三年來錢花了不少, 經濟卻毫無起色。 共和党那邊也沒一個像樣的候選人, 連Newt Gingrich 這樣的政客也出來選, 美國人的苦日子還多著呢。
中國人也沒有高明到那裡去, 甚麼黨, 甚麼主義都只是個幌子, 最終的目的就是”老子要做皇帝”。上世紀四十年代國、共內戰讓一群國民黨的部隊流竄於緬北和泰北。看過柏揚 [異城] 的朋友應該知道梗概吧。我無意討論國、共的對錯,只是替這一群客死異鄉的軍人難過。六十多年過去了, 他們的後人還生活在這裡。我們在美斯樂見到的已經是生活條件比較好的一群, 那些生活在近寮國邊境的和美紅頌(密豐頌)山裡的很多人還是十分清苦的。我罵國民黨, 我罵共產黨。就算到今天, 2011! 還是沒有改進。
滿以為台灣是中華文化的一片淨土, 結果還是”老子要做皇帝”。國民黨出了個馬英九, 夲身清亷, 但”擋人財路”, 黨內不少人拖其後腿; 絕對執政, 但政策郤停滯不前。民主進步黨既不民主也不進步, 就是會貪, 除了貪還是貪。親民黨就更不用說了。好好的寶島, 惡鬥內耗,弄到日月無光。
中國自明清以來, 到底有過多少好日子呢? 來, 來, 來, 勸君更進一杯酒, 與爾同消萬古愁, 乾!!我在美斯樂參觀他們的文史館, 在靈堂祭壇前深深的鞠躬, 望客死異鄉的軍人早日成佛。
文史館難民村的分佈圖, 雖然他們把難民村改為移民村, 但沒有改变事实的夲質。 Map showing KMT immigrant villages (as they are called to day, actually they were refugee camps) along Burmese (yellow) border.
Mae Salong was found in the early ’60 of last century by the Chinese Nationalist Army. They were defeated by the Communist Army (Mao’s Red Army) in Yuan Nan province in China. As shown above, in the red area, most of the “refugees” settled along the Burmese (yellow area) border in Chiang Rai Province, Chiang Mai Province and Mae Hung Sung. The KMT army helped the Thai army to suppress Communism in Northern Thailand, in return, they were allowed to settle in those areas and oversaw (?) the opium trade . Not until the ’80, the north of Chiang Rai Province was a dangerous area, full of opium drug cartels and their armed forces. After the retreat of the famous warlord Khun Sa to Burma (Myanmar) and later surrendered to the Burmese army. Thai Government was able to begin to pacify the area. Nowadays, there are no more opium growing; instead, folks there are growing oolong tea and coffee. The quality of oolong and coffee are surprisingly good. However, as compared with the living standard there, the prices are not cheap though.
文史館入場卷。 Admission ticket.
佛手拈花。 I believe this is a mudra, but haven't found out the meaning yet.
文史館外觀。 The main hall is surprisingly handsome.
文史館门環。 The door knock of the entrance.
展覽廳地板一塵不染。Reflection of a pillar in the exhibition hall.
左方為主殿祭壇, 右為展覧廳。 The main hall. On the right, he exhibition hall is showing the history of the army.
主殿內祭壇。 Inside the main hall, enshrined the name tags of all those who had sacrificed.
祭壇上靈牌。 The main shrine.
祭壇上靈牌。 Some of the enshrined name tags.
孤軍行動路線圖。Map showing the movement of the army from Kunming to Burma, probably in the early '50s.
孤軍效忠泰王。 Photos showing the army offer their loyalty to the King of Thailand.
李彌將軍。 General Lee, the leader of the army.
段希文將軍, 雷雨田將軍 和李文煥將軍。 Some of the leadership of the army.
靈堂外望, 雖信美而非吾土兮.....Looking out to the main entrance from the main hall.
