Autumn in Kyoto – Day 2 – part 1 京の秋

afaf

I need to find some of these seeds and grow a bonsai. 如果有一盆日夲楓的盆栽會多好。

到達京都當晚就細讀紅葉情報,似乎離高峰期尚有一段日子,這個是無法控制的。此行第一目標是高雄,所以希望能多等幾天才去。每天早上先看天氣報告,才决定 行程,是日行程選定下鴨神社和曼殊院。到下鴨神社用走路的,這樣可順道参觀梨木神社、盧山寺和河合神社。下午去曼殊院,如果時間許可,還會多去一間寺院。

I checked the foliage report and the weather report each morning before deciding my route for the day. My number one target was Takao 高雄, the northern hills. However, I wanted to wait for as long as possible, because it was not at peak yet. Day 2’s main choices (actually, there were not many choices, because nowhere inside the city had a lot of colors yet) were Shimogamo Shrine 下鴨神社 and Mansuin 曼殊院. In between, I walked through 1)Nashinoki Shrine梨木神社, 2)Rozanji temple盧山寺, 3) Kawai Shrine河合神社.

Japanese maple

Although not yet turned red, Japanese maple is really handsome.縱然還未轉紅,綠的楓葉也是漂亮的。

梨木神社

Nashinoki Shrine 梨木神社, this shrine is famous for its lespedeza. For some reasons, the Japanese love this plant very much.梨木神社以萩出名,特地跑來看看。

haku

Haiku on Bush clover, Lespedeza sp. 萩. I had no idea what was written, but interestingly, most of the authors  were ladies.萩上的俳句,作者多為女仕。

盧山寺(紫式部故居)

Rozanji temple.  This temple was the residence of the author, Murasaki Shikibu, of Genji monogatari (The tales of Genji, 源氏物語). 盧山寺乃紫式部故居,喜歡源氏物語的人多來此朝聖。

盧山寺

Rozanji 盧山寺. They were having a special exhibition concerning Genji monogatari. Unfortunately, I am not a big fan.盧山寺內正舉行源氏物語文物展.

河合神社

Kawai Shrine 河合神社. Before reaching Shimogamo Shrine, there is another shrine. Kyoto is not a big city, however, it has a total of 1700 temples and shrines, big and small. Some of the shrines can be as small as a fridge.

This is the hut (of course, a duplicate) of Kamo no Chomei's famous " An account of my hut". �長明方丈記之陋室

Inside the shrine, there is the hut,  a duplicate,  of Kamo no Chomei’s (1155-1216) famous residence. Kamo no Chomei was a very famous author, poet (waka) and essayist.   鴨長明方丈記中之斗室, 黑澤明最後一部作品中亦提及方丈記。

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總於走到下鴨神社了, 社前有一片淨土, 是一片原始森林, 真想不到大城市中央竟然有原始森林。Finally, here we are,  the Shimogamo Shrine.

the forest

On the right hand side of  the road leading to the shrine is a primeval forest,        Tadasu no Mori   (糺の森.)此處是京都保存的原始森林。

The Kamo Shrines, Kamigamo Jinja (上賀茂神社 lit. Upper Kamo Shrine) and Shimogamo Jinja (下鴨神社 lit. Lower Kamo Shrine) are a pair of Shinto shrines . They are among the oldest shrines in the country. Both shrines are dedicated to Kamo Wake-ikazuchi, the Kami of thunder, and both feature prominently in the Aoi Festival, which occurs in May and involves a procession between the two shrines, horse races, and archery. Shimogamo Shrine (Lower Kamo Shrine),  is believed to be 100 years older than its counterpart, dating back to the 6th century. The shrine was later rebuilt to protect the capital city of Heian-kyo (as Kyoto was then called) when it was founded in 794. It has since become one of the key shrines in the area, being associated with prayers to ensure the success of the annual rice harvest. Shimogamo Shrine is located within Tadasu no Mori (糺の森), ‘the forest of truth,’ a primeval forest that is supposed to have never been burned or chopped down. The forest has in fact suffered some damage over the centuries, as Kyoto was burned during successive revolts and wars, but its growth has rebounded and is widely considered to be mainly natural, not pruned or planted by human beings. Shimogamo Shrine is officially called “Kamomioya Shrine(賀茂御祖神社 kamomioya jinja).

The main gate of the Shrine

The main gate of the Shrine. 神社的正門。

The maple was not ready yet, but the ginkgo was beautiful.

The maple was not ready yet, but the ginkgo was dazzling.    京部市內的楓葉多未換裝,唯銀杏已金黄耀眼。

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七五三(しちごさん) Shichi-Go-San

十一月十五日是日夲的七五三節。這一天的三歲與七歲的女孩子和五歲的男孩子會穿上傳統服裝,到神社去祈福.據說起源自平安時代,當時小孩的夭折率頗高,就 算是在權貴家庭亦如是,所以權貴家庭的父母都會帶幼兒往神社参拜,祈求健康成長。這個節日到江户時漸漸普及至庶民。現代的父母亦如江户的父母一樣,化重金 為小孩置裝,把他們打扮得漂亮得體,再上神社参拜。

November 15 is the day called “Shichi-go-san” in Japan. It’s the day for the girls at the age of 3 & 7 and the boys at the age of 5 to celebrate their healthy growth with their family members. The children usually wear traditional clothes and the family visit a shrine of temple to pray for health and happiness and celebrate their age (info from Nihongomemo.com). The day was 11/13, obviously this family was celebrating a bit earlier to bit the crowd.

Shichi-go-san

According to the zodiac year they were born, kids pray to different deities. 神社內有不同的神壇供不同生肖的人拜拜。

This beautiful 7-year-old is holding a bag of candy, the length of the candy symbolizes longevity.

This beautiful 7-year-old is holding a bag of candy, the length of the candy symbolizes longevity. 這七歲的女孩非常漂亮,手中堤着長長的糖菓,象徵健康長寿。

A mother in her Sunday best sitting in a ceremony.

A mother, in her Sunday best, was sitting in a ceremony. 來参加典禮的年輕母親亦打份得體。

I believe this was part of the Shichi-go-san ceremony.

I believe this was part of the Shichi-go-san ceremony. 正在進行的儀式,未和是否與七五三節有関。

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從下鴨神社出來,信步走到公車站乘車去萬殊院,豈料差50呎未趕上。看看車站的時間表,下一班要等35分鐘呢。街角有間吉野家,跑進去點了牛肉飯和麵豉 湯,不到五分鐘就送上來。吃完午飯,走回車站,還有七分鐘的時間。這就是我在京都八天唯一的午餐,現在回想起來,還覺齒頰留香呢。

I walked to the bus station for the bus to Mansuin and I missed it by 50 feet. The wait for the next bus was 35 minutes. I found this Yoshinoya beef rice bowl restaurant (McDonald’s Japanese counterpart selling beef rice bowl instead of burger) around the corner. I sat down, enjoyed my lunch. By the time I came back to the bus station, I had 7 minutes to spare. This was the only lunch I had in Kyoto, for the other seven days in Kyoto, I skipped lunch to save time, I either had a power bar or a small bag of M&M.

The only lunch I had in Kyoto

Yoshinoya

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This entry was posted in Fall foliage 紅葉, Japan 日夲, Kyoto 京都, Seasons 季節 and tagged , , , , , , , . Bookmark the permalink.

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