Prasat Kravan – Angkor Wat (3) 吳哥行之三 – 豆蔻寺

It was under the midday sun. We had already visited four temples that morning, including Ta Prohm (one of the best temples there). The temperature was well above 35C, the T shirt I was wearing had already glued to my body by a mixture of sweat, heavy-duty sunscreen, insect repellent and may be a little dust. I was hungry and exhausted, however, the sun just didn’t care. The camera hanging over my neck kept dragging me to gravity, it weighted a ton.

It was in this situation that we were led to Prasat Kravan. A series of five small blocks of bricks built on a single level platform. No fancy decorations could be seen on the outside. I refused my brain’s order to take a picture of it, even though I thought the shape of the structures were unique (to my virgin eyes). I peeked into the fist chamber, the South Tower, and found an empty brick room with basically nothing. While I was puzzling, I stepped into the Central Tower.  Oh, My… a jackpot!!!  I picked myself up again, yelled to myself: “Get back to the ring, it’s not over yet”. I believe I felt the rush of adrenaline. Anyway,  I was able to move my “heavy-weight” camera again. However, not until I was home thousands of miles away from Prasat Kravan, I realized that I hadn’t taken a picture of the outside of the temple. Therefore I borrow this one from Wikipedia (copyright free, thank you) to show you this beauty.

Its original Sanskrit name is unknown. The modern name in Khmer means cardamom temple. The temple was dedicated to Vishnu (Wikipedia).

七月十日中午時分, 惡毒的太陽高高掛在頭上。 早上已参觀過四座廟宇。 35C的氣溫加上90%+的濕度令我這老頭有點吃不消。 頸上掛着的照相機变得愈來愈沉; 身上的T恤被汗水、防曬膏和蚊怕水混成的”膠水”黏貼在身上。 腦袋除了想着冷氣和午餐之外, 其他的一概怠工。就在這種狀態下, 我們來到豆蔻寺。首先映入眼簾的只是五座小型的磚建築物, 雖然覺得它線條獨特, 但沒有華麗的裝飾, 心裡就先打了折扣。 及後進入南面第一座塔, 裡面”廟徒四壁”,空無一物。 心裡正在納悶, 此時踏進中央的塔, 眼前突然一亮, 裡面精緻的磚雕和绚麗的色調令我體內的腎上腺素標升, “重量級”的照相機又再度变得輕盈。 然而, 離開豆蔻寺數千哩後才發現見树不見林, 竟然沒有拍得此寺的全景。 尤幸 Wikipedia 提供免版權的照片可借用, 感謝。本寺之梵文原名已無從考究, 其現在之高棉名稱譯為豆蔻寺。 寺內供奉印度教的毗濕奴神(Vishnu)。

Prasat Kravan

Prasat Kravan  豆蔻寺外觀

The Central Tower

The Central Tower. Note that a linga is on a Yoni. 中塔, 室中央供奉着之濕婆神的化身 – 陽具


Taking picture in that kind of lighting condition was really challenging (I’d actually made the situation more complicated by adding a polarization filter). This picture was taken a few minutes after the group left. The light had changed, it was not as bright, however, the color of the bricks had changed too.  Click to enlarge for details. 當日拍塔內部時並不容易, 因為從天而入的光綫非常強, 內部卻無照明, 不着光處十分的暗. 尤其我常有偏光鏡在鏡前, 所以既耍陽光,亦要闪光。這也是為何傻瓜機會有時有較好的表現。


This is the south wall of the central tower. Vishnu, in his four hands, holds a disc, a globe, a conch and a club and is taking a big step. This image illustrates the story of Vishnu in his incarnation as Vamana the dwarf taking three great steps in order to reclaim the world from the asura Bali. 中塔, 毗湿奴手持四法器, 正在邁出三大步以向阿修羅巴理(Bali)奪回世界。

Vishnu -2

This eight-armed Vishnu is flanked by six tiers of attendants.             八臂毗濕奴與信眾。

Vishnu -3

This four-armed Vishnu sits on Garuda, his vehicle.   此四臂毗濕奴騎在座騎金翅大鵬(Garuda)。

North Tower

North Tower.  北塔

The North Tower

Inside the North Tower, the light was dazzling. 北塔內觀


Lakshmi, Vishnu’s consort, holds in her four hands symbols of power.    四臂毗濕奴之妻(吉祥天?)手持權力象徵的四法器。

L -2

This shows a more traditional depiction of Lakshmi holding lotuses(?)                                吉祥天(?)(毗濕奴之妻)手持蓮花(?)呈現較傳統的形象。

L -3

Apparently, the Lakshmi on this wall can no longer be seen. The nice looking wall is probably a new wall restored by the French. 此牆上的吉祥天(?)已不復見, 平滑的磚牆應該是法人修復後的新牆。


Finally, the time has come to eat, we ended up eating in a fancy hotel. The food was good and the setting was perfect. After the meal, we rushed back to the hotel to enjoy the best activity of the day – taking a shower. Mmm……. Priceless.

終於是時間吃飯了,是五星飯店的豪華自助餐。 大家開懷暢食, 我因為豆蔻寺而提升的腎上腺素仍有餘威, 遂把團友和美食都記錄下來。 飲飽食醉之後, 我們逼不及待, 趕回酒店享受每日最佳的節目- 淋浴。你知道淋浴後在吹冷氣的感覺嗎? Mmmm…… 無以上之。

This entry was posted in Angkor Wat 吳哥, My Collection 自選集, Travel 旅遊 and tagged , , , , , , . Bookmark the permalink.

2 Responses to Prasat Kravan – Angkor Wat (3) 吳哥行之三 – 豆蔻寺

  1. Marty says:

    I had a chance to just glance at the pics. I will make some more time to examine closely when I get home.

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