Bayon, Angkor Wat (4) 吳哥行之四 – 巴戎廟

The Bayon was built in the late 12th century as the state temple of King Jayavarman VII, a Mahayana Buddhist. The Bayon is situated at the heart of the Angkor Thom, or the Great City. The temple was later modified and augmented by Hindu and Theravada Buddhist kings after the death of King Jayavarman VII.

The Bayon is well known for the huge stone faces, referred as “the smile of Khmer” by locals, on the upper terrace of the temple. The temple is also famous for its impressive bas-reliefs. which present an unusual combination of mythological, histological, and everyday life scenes (Wikipedia).

Before entering Angkor Thom,  we stopped by the famous South Gate to admire the gigantic gate and the statues of “Churning of the Ocean of Milk”.

巴戎廟座落大吳哥的中央, 始建於十二世紀後期。為Jayavarman 七世國王所建的國廟。此廟為遊客必遊的景點之一。其最為人津津樂道者: 一) 在第一及第二台階四方的迥廊上, 有精美的浮雕。其特點是除了神話和軍隊行列外, 主題還包括普通百姓的生活。迥廊上的屋蓋己不存在, 陽光直射而下, 提供極佳照明。 ニ) 在第二台階上八個(?)塔上的四周皆刻有巨型的頭像。這些被當地導遊稱之為”微笑高棉”的頭像, 多數認為是國王 Jayavarman 七世的頭像, 但有人認為是觀世音觀菩薩(原為此廟主神)。此廟最特別的是: 始建時,它是唯一(?)的大乘佛教寺廟, 此在南傳佛教的領域來說, 是比較罕有的。 此廟在七世去世後, 巴戎廟曾被改奉印度教或南傳上座部佛教.

South Gate with asuras pulling the serpent on the right.

South Gate. Statues of “Churning of the Ocean of Milk” – the asuras (demons) are pulling the naga (serpent) whose head is shown on the right.  Angkor Thom 实為吳哥城之意。我等由南門入城。南門建築宏偉, 其上亦有七世頭像。路两旁有巨型的乳海翻騰的立體雕像。面向南門右方為五十四亞修罹拉着大蛇的上半身. 巨型的蛇頭在最右方。

Churning of the Milk Ocean, the asuras.

Churning of the Ocean of Milk, the asuras (note their not-so-friendly facial expression). 亞修羅一方。亞修羅為惡神, 面容不善。

The deva side

The deva side, note their “friendly” facial expression (these two are probably newly restored). 提婆一方, 提婆為善神, 面容和善。

Bayon from a distance.

Bayon from a distance. Note the “smile of Khmer” on the upper terrace. 巴戎廟外觀。第三台階上之中央塔為罕見之圓形。

Dancing apsara on the pillar on the lower terrace.

Dancing apsara on the pillar of the lower terrace. 一階柱上的舞仙。其造形與他廟不同, 自成一家, 被稱為巴戎派。

sksk

Khmer worshipers, southeast corner pavilion. 迥廊上的浮雕, 顯示朝聖者形像。

The Chinese

Chinese

Said to be a “chaotic” scene in a Chinese restaurant. 據說是一中國食肆內的情景。其混亂的情况有點熟悉吧。

Chinese

These are foreigners. The missing long free ear lobes, the goatee beards, the hair style, the paper umbrella on the wall and the fingers in the air,  all suggesting that they are  Chinese, probably in a restaurant. 為什麼說是中國人? 耳垂短,非高棉人。山羊鬚, 朿髮, 牆上的紙傘, 富然還有那指手画脚的場景。

army

Khmer army in action 高棉軍(長耳垂), 未知是何戰役.

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Khmer army in action -2.         戰役二

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Military supplies. The woman on the left is probably a cook for the army.   經人指點才知此乃後勤補給隊伍, 左邊帶孩子的婦女可能是厨子。

ccccc

Khmer army in March. Note that all the foot soldiers depicted have ropes on their bodies. They are probably taken prisoners and forced to serve on the front line. 步兵身上套有繩索, 乃戰俘. 然手上有兵器, 應該是俘虜改編之先鋒隊伍。惟未知是高棉兵還是越南兵(Cham).

The Smile of Khmer.

“The Smile of Khmer” as claimed by our Khmer guide.  It is widely accepted that these faces are the images of King Jayarvarman VII, although some think that they represent the bodhisattva Avalokiteshvara. 這就是著名的”微笑高棉”, 光是面部就有五、六呎高。

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Gigantic smiling faces on the towers of the upper terrace.          高棉的微笑.

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A “Smile of Khmer” as seen from inside a tower. 從塔內往外望.

A shrine inside one of the tower on the upper terrace.

A shrine inside one of the tower on the upper terrace. 其中一塔內奉有神像; 可能是眼睛未適應, 內部漆黑一片。

gggggggg

A “Smile of Khmer” looking down from the upper terrace. Note apsaras on pillars and on lintel.  第一台階上望微笑高棉。

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This is one of those destinations where you need to sit down, do nothing and watch the change of light so as to appreciate the beauty of the atmosphere. Dawn or dusk should be a good time to come, the changing light would add dramatic effects to the whole setting. 當日遊巴戎時, 就覺得時間不夠, 怱怱的繞個圈, 東奔西跑的拍亇照就要趕塲。 巴戎這亇地方得坐下來, 什麽都不做, 好好的感受它的氣氛, 也看看光線移動後雕像的变化。這些地方一定要在大清早或是黃昏的時候來, 光線的变化會有戲劇性的作用。也許下一次吧。

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