清邁塔佩門內三小寺 Three Gem Monasteries Inside Tha Pae Gate, Chinag Mai

泰北行腳之ニ十 : 清邁舊城塔佩門內三小寺   Northern Thailand: Part 20

清邁寺院眾多, 給我的感覺就像佛羅倫斯的教堂一樣, 五步一樓, 十步一閣。泰國不能說是很富裕的國家, 但大多寺院都修輯得美侖美奐, 並開放四方善信自由参拜, 不收門卷, 更無不法之徒”強迫”上香。僧侶善目慈顏, 令人賓至如歸。這裡介紹由塔佩門向西行所見三間寺院, 都不大, 但頗有看頭。Besides of high humidity, walking on the streets of Chiang Mai was a pleasant experience. Similar to that of Florence, there are religious institutions around every corner in the city. Even better, most of them are photogenic, no admission fees, and you can always expect a warm welcome. Here are three small gems you can see on your way to the famous Wat Chedi Luang from Tha Pae Gate.

I. 潘安寺  Wat Phan On (Pan On)

潘安寺(音譯)是塔佩門入城後向西行的第二座寺院。院中有匾說明寺始建於1501年。寺院建築美侖美奐, 香火頗盛。每逢周曰,市集沿 Rachadamnoen Road 擺賣, 寺院廣場上亦有熟食檔擺賣, 高朋滿座, 熱鬧非常。

A plaque inside the temple mentioned that the temple was built around 1501 in King Phra Muang Kaeo’s reign when Lanna was flourishing with arts and culture. This is indeed a beautiful temple. The ground of the temple is open to public and serves as a food court and resting place when the Sunday market is in business.

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1. 從庭園中向東望, 後為佛堂。Looking east, the chedi and the viharn on the back.

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2. 佛堂建築較獨特, 似為兩層, 上層有露台。The viharn appeared to have two storeys and a balcony which is not a common feature.

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3. 佛堂的中庭。The nave of the viharn.

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4. 祭壇上的主佛像。 The main Buddha image.

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5. 緬甸式獅子護法。A Burmese style lion guarding the entrance to the viharn. On the background is the chedi.

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6. 緬甸式佛塔, 四方有佛龕奉佛像; 塔的四角有傘幔護法。A Burmese chedi with a niche at each cardinal point and a parasol on each corner.

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7. 佛龕中所奉佛像。 好喜歡那金色菩提樹的圖案。Buddha image in one of the niches of the chedi.

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8. 砲彈樹, 此樹原生於美洲熱帶區, 後據說其木質花序自幹長出, 似天龍盤在樹上保護成正覺的佛祖, 故被引入廣植東南亞佛教國度云云. I found this beautiful flower on one of the stree in the yard, I was told that this is a Cannonball tree.

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II. 木蘭寺  Wat Muen Larn (Muen Lan)

木蘭寺是進入塔佩門西行所見的第一所寺院, 佔地不廣, 網上亦沒法找到太多的資料。似乎除了周日之外, 門庭有點冷清。周日市集開擺時, 整個寺院的空地都擺着攤販, 熱鬧非常。由於泰國寺院通常都是美侖美奐, 木蘭寺的緬甸式塔, 介堂和佛堂沒有突出之處。唯獨是其藏經閣建築頗為特別 (想是蘭納式吧)。藏經閣門窗上的楣飾, 雖然是双龍的傳統設計, 但可能是因嵌有彩色玻璃片, 感覺特別的亮麗。

Wat Muen Larn is a small monastery located only a few steps west of Tha Pae Gate. To my untrained eyes, the monastery appeared to be Burmese in style with some Lanna features. There are a Burmese chedi, a viharn and a ubosot marked by sema stones. Having seen a couple of dozens of monastery/temples in Thailand, these buildings are just average. However, their ho trai (the library) is a gem. The colors, basically red and gold, are eye-catching. And the decorative sum over the windows and the door, in the form of coiled naga, are gorgeous.

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9. 木蘭寺的名牌看起來有點零落。 Wat Muen Larn.

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10. 藏經閣。 The ho trai (Library) of Wat Muen Larn. The sand tower in front of it was probably for holding incense during a ceremony (?)

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11. 窗上的楣飾設計~羅睺口吐双龍。Two nagas coming out from the mouth of the legendary Rahu (?)

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12. 窗上的楣飾, 金色與紅色給人的感覺实在舒服。 四頁窗扉上漆上漂亮的圖案與上面的金色呼應。The other design of the decoration above a window.

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13. 藏經閣楣上的裝飾。 The coiled nagas over the door of the ho trai.

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14. 戒堂的結界石。 Sema stone (Bai sema)

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15. 緬甸式佛塔. Burmese style chedi.

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16. 塔東方為佛堂。 The small viharn in front of the chedi.

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17. 佛堂前的立佛。 The standing Buddha image in front of the viharn.

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III. 潘圖寺   Wat Phan Tao

從潘安寺往西行不一會就到 Phra Pok Klao Road, 從這裡往南走一石之遙就到有名的大塔寺 (Wat Chedi Luang)。就在Phra Pok Klao Road十字路口的地方有一座柚木建成的佛堂, 稱潘圖寺。據說泰文Phan Tao 是千窯之意。這原來不是寺院, 是建造大塔寺一個鑄造大小佛像的地方。大塔寺建成之後, 在原地蓋有一柚木宮殿供 Chao Mahawong 王居住(1846-1854), 原屋作高蹺式。於1876年改建為寺院前除去高蹺。網上資料大多注重佛堂的嵌板式牆壁, 我卻對下面這两項特別喜愛:

1) 佛堂東門楣上山形牆的木雕, 很多書裡都把它看作納蘭式木雕的範例;

2) 佛堂前矮牆的拱門, 應該是泥塑的吧, 可惜怎樣也找不到有関資料。

Wat Phan Tao
Before turning south on Phra Pok Klao Road on the way to Wat Chedi Luang, one would see a beautiful teak temple called Wat Phan Tao. The name Phan Tao refers to ” a thousand kilns”. It is said that a thousand kilns refer to the casting of the numerous Buddha images during the construction of Wat Chedi Luang. Online info focuses on the wooden panels of the wall of viharn, for me, however, the following were the focuses of my visit:

1) The decoration on the gable (pediment) of the facade of the viharn;

2) The stucco gate in front of the viharn,

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18. 不容錯過的裝飾。  The decorations on the gate and the facade are exceptionally beautiful.

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19. 佛堂東門上楣飾, 精緻絕倫, 所惜為欄門及上面電線所擋, 無法拍得正面照。 The intricate Lanna style carving decorating the gable of the viharn. Unfortunately it is hard to get a good shot of it because the gate and the overhanging electrical wires.

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20. 矮牆門泥塑精美。It’s a pity that I was not able to find any information about this beautiful gate in front of the viharn.

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21. 大殿祭壇。 The nave of the viharn.

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22. 佛堂左方排有上百僧砵, 供善信施捨結緣。 Devotees put offerings to the rows of monk’s bowls.

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23. 佛殿主佛像。 The main Buddha image.

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24. 從佛堂中庭外望。Looking out to the beautiful “gate” from the viharn.

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25. 寺外牆之嵌板是佛堂特色, 可惜為法輪旗所蓋, 看不清楚。   The outer wall of the viharn is almost covered with the Wheel of Dharma, hard to see the wood panels.

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26. 佛陀說法。 On the far end of the yard, a Buddha image was placed under a Bodhi tree, to imitate a scene of Buddha giving teaching.

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27. 佛陀說法。 From another angle.

Map showing the location of these three monasteries.

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28. 三小寺之相對位置, 潘圖寺(紅), 潘安寺(綠), 木蘭寺(藍)。 Map showing the relative location of Wat Phan Tao (red), Wat Phan On (green) and Wat Muen Luan (blue).

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