京都鷹峰三寺秋色 The Three Temples in Takagamine, Kyoto

Genkoan

源光庵 Genkoan

2015 京都の秋 (二)  2015 Autumn in Kyoto (2)

鷹峰三寺 – 源光庵, 光悦寺, 圓成寺

一般而言, 京都鷹峰三寺是指 源光庵, 光悦寺 和 常照寺。在搜集資料時, 得悉常照寺没啥看頭, 所以捨常照寺而加入據說不錯的 圓成寺。源光庵以其迷妄之窗(「迷いの窓」window of delusion),和領悟之窗(「悟りの窓」window of realization) 聞名, 令日人趨之若鶩; 我對這種太形式化的東西興趣不大, 只是看了不少網上照片,發覺總是由左側向右對角切入取景, 令我好生”迷妄”, 所以一定要去看看, 以解迷團。光悦寺遊人不少, 雖然都有些紅葉, 但我以為是無足觀矣。圓成寺據說”有些紅葉”, 但郤原來是三寺之冠(?)。雖然是不收門卷, 卻是門堪羅雀, 不解。

Takagamine – Genkoan, Koetsu-ji, Josho-ji & Enjo-ji

Located in the northwest of Kyoto, Genkoan, Koetsu-ji and Josho-ji (源光庵, 光悦寺 & 常照寺) are generally known as the Three Temples of Takagamine. The popularity of these three temples among leaf peepers is said to be Genkoan> Koetsu-ji>Josho-ji. Genkoan is most famous for the two windows next to the main altar looking over the garden. After carefully studied photos available online, we had decided not to visit Josho-ji which is said to have the least to offer. By the same token, we added another temple in the neighborhood called Enjo-ji (圓成寺). Surprisingly, Enjo-ji tuned out to be a truly hidden gem, probably one of the best temples we had visited in Kyoto, in terms of foliage colors. Even better, the admission was free, and not a lot of fellow leaf peepers blocking your view/camera.

當日行程: 上午 – 鷹峰三寺(A);  下午 – 午膳(B)+今宫神社(C)。                                                   Our trip of the day, AM – Takagamine(A) ;  PM – Lunch(B) + Imamiya Shrine (C)

Map

                                                          

源光庵 Genkoan

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山門. The  Nanmon, Southern Gate.

The entrance.

山門右方, 未知通往何處。An entrance on the east of the gate, no idea where it is leading to.

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通過山門後, 本堂前庭院。 ↑ The view after one passes the Southern Gate, visitors enter the building on the right.

The main hall

源光庵本堂 The Main Hall. 

side altar

本堂內左方祭壇。 Inside the Main Hall, side altar.

 

The altar

本堂內中央祭壇。右方柱位後乃領悟之窗。                                                                        ↑ The main altar. Note the Window of Realization (round window) on the right behind the pillar.

Note the line on the right in front of the famous windows.

主祭壇右方, 遊人在名窗前排隊。上方的天花就是400多年前伏見城的「血天井」的部份。↑Note the line on the right in front of the famous windows. The ceiling above is part of the well known Bloody Ceilings from Fushimi Castle.

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遊客在「悟りの窓」和「迷いの窓」前輪侯。Folks kneed down in line for their turn to move forward to view the famous windows. 

源光庵最著名的是本堂裡面向後院的两只窗, 一圓一方。圓者稱之為「悟りの窓」, 即領悟之窗, 據說是指領悟禅與圓通的境介, 無有執著。方者稱之為「迷いの窓」, 即迷妄之窗, 據說是指如佛陀教示, 生、老、病和死之苦。筆者凡夫俗子, 毫無慧根, 反而覺得這太重形式, 太執着了。如上圖所示, 日人趨之若鶩。網上所見照片, 都是由左向右作45度切角取景,一直以為角窗前有祭壇或障礙物, 原來並非如此, 實乃圓窗後不見紅葉, 所以由左側取景始見紅葉。 就在此廳上方的天花木板, 就是頂頂有名的「血天井」的部份。

The round window on the left is known as the Window of Realization (「悟りの窓」 implying enlightenment), and the square one is known as the Window of Delusion(「迷いの窓」). There were no altars or obstruction in front of the square window, I guess the reason why most of the photos are taken from left hand side is that one can only see the autumn colors through the round window from that angle.

as

我們没有在窗前排隊, 由於人頗擁擠, 我們到右方去看庭院的紅葉, 十分鐘後回來, 發現觀賞暫停, 未知何故。                                                                                                                               ↑ We had no intention viewing the windows, instead, we went to the hall on the right hand side and sat down for the view of the garden, and when we came back 10 min later, viewing in front of the windows was suspended, reasons unknown.

The view of the garden.

後面庭院火紅的楓樹。The view of the garden.

剛進寺時, 付了参拜料, 進到本堂右側不知名的堂, 除了有障壁画和掛軸外, 没有太多寶物展出, 胡亂拍了些照片, 就坐在面向庭院的座敷上欣賞後院枯山水和紅葉, 隨便拍了幾張照片就靜坐賞景。不一會, 有工作人員過來叫遊客們不要拍照。有日人說只是照庭院, 答案是也不行。行前做功課, 看了不少2012和2013 年有關源光庵的秋色博文, 不單没有人提過不能拍照, 就連「血天井」的照片也很多。當時有點納悶, 不能用三腳架和閃燈的道理我懂; 為了版權, 不讓拍寶物的道裡我也懂, 但連拍庭院的紅葉也不可以的道理我就不懂了, 想是希望大家用「心」去欣賞吧。其後走到本堂,没有拿起相機,  隨便按下掛在胸前相機快門, 拍了幾張(都歪了, 幸虧掛的是16mm, 還有足夠轉過來的画面)。至於「血天井」就無法拍了。不知為何, 日本愈來愈多寺院禁止拍照, 鄰近的圓成寺就是一例。尤幸奈良東大寺裡仍可拍照, 得償心願。

We sat down in the hall next to the main hall facing the garden and admired the autumn colors. And, of course, took some pictures as I have come thousands of miles to do. However, shortly after I put down my camera, a lady coming around and telling folks in the hall that photography was not allowed, not even taking pictures of the garden. This indeed surprised me and my fellow leaf peepers.

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on diaplay

掛軸。On display.

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障壁画。On display.

離開本堂, 隨着其他遊客繞到一小巷, 來到夲堂後的楓樹叢, 幾株大楓樹在艷陽下紅得似火。這裡可隨意拍照。

After our tour to the Main Hall, we followed other leaf peepers to the back of the Main Hall through a narrow alley where we could see some spectacular maple trees which were on fire. In this corner, you can take as many pictures as you want.

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跟着小巷到本堂後。Alley leading to the back of the building where there are large maple tree with spectacular colors.

 

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圓成寺:

我們在鷹峰的第二站是圓成寺, 就在光悦寺的對面, 遊人不多, 門可羅雀。山門内有一小牌, 竪的寫了三行字, 由右至左:

合掌以敬心

山內写真撮影を禁ず

欲聞具足道

「合掌以敬心, 欲聞具足道」出自《法華經》, 看了令人有些禪意。這裡没有收門票(連僧人和工作人員都没有一個), 也没有開放佛, 庭院裡遊人不多, 寧靜安詳, 真個是清幽景地。山内楓紅似火而没有太多遊客, 在京都的秋天, 是非常難得的景像。中間那行字應該是禁止攝影吧, 可是寺內日本遊客都自由拿起相機拍攝, 我也就無法抗拒了(罪過, 罪過, 君子慎其獨也! 「合掌以敬心」,禮拜懺悔)。離開時, 在近山門處一房舍走出一位穿橙和白色和服女子(像神社女人員的服飾), 詢問可否拍攝, 答案是不可以。

Enjo-ji :  Our second stop is Enjo-ji. Apparently this temple  is not as well-known as its neighbors, despite the fact that it was free to admit, it was not crowded at all. Most importantly, its autumn colors were spectacular. There was a note at the front gate, in Japanese, telling visitors that photography was not allowed (my educated guess). The rule was not enforced (not a worker or monk was in sight), most of the visitors, even those speaking Japanese, took snap shots everywhere, I thought my interpretation was incorrect. However, before leaving the premisses, I saw a young lady, dressed in white and orange like lady workers in a shrine, coming out of a building, I confirmed with her if photography was allowed, and the answer was no.

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The entrance to Enjo-ji.

合掌以敬心, 欲聞具足道.  The Sanmon, Southern Gate, of Enjo-ji.

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佛堂没有開放. The halls were not accessible to the general public. 

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遊人不多, 楓紅似火。Hidden gem.

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回望山門. Looking back to the entrance.

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這似是神社設施. This appears to me as a Shinto shrine.

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妙見宫, 境內神社. This is  a Shinto shrine.

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妙見宫.  Sinto Shrine

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光悦寺: 鷹峰三寺之一, 當日遊人眾多, 由於地方不大, 又没有拜殿開放, 参道和庭院的走道上顯得頗擁擠, 可說是摩肩擦踵, 拍照就更難, 只能抬起相機往高處拍, 所以怱怱轉了一个圈就離開了。

Koetsu-ji : Koetsu-ji is situated across the street of the Enjo-ji, Despite the fact that the alley leading to the temple is small, we didn’t miss it because it was crowded with leaf peepers. There were some colors in the premisses, however, it was so crowded that we could only take closeup shot of the leaves above head level. We only stayed a short while there.

The small alley leads to Koetsu-ji.

The small alley, under the red maple,  leads to Koetsu-ji.

This alley is very nice, tranqualize... you have wait a while to be able to take a pic wiith not many folks around.

This alley is very nice, tranquilized… provided you are willing to wait a while to be able to take a pic without many folks around.

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光悦寺可遠眺京都市内。 Koetsu-ji overlooks the city of Kyoto.

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This entry was posted in Fall foliage 紅葉, Japan 日夲, Kyoto 京都, Seasons 季節, Temple 廟, Travel 旅遊 and tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , . Bookmark the permalink.

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