京都真如堂秋色 Shinnyodo, Kyoto

P1070707-2

2014 京都の秋 (六)   Autumn in Kyoto (6) 

京都真如堂秋色   Shinnyodo, Kyoto

京都真如堂秋色: 真正極樂寺真如堂位於京都左京區, 哲學之道之西。真如堂的東南方有著名的紅葉名所永觀堂和南禅寺, 東北方亦有著名的銀閣寺。 未知是否如此, 抑或是我們去的那天下著小雨, 真如堂賞楓的人没有想像中的擁擠。上次來京都賞楓, 就是去了永觀堂人擠人,寺內空間不大, 摩肩擦踵, 不能静心欣賞, 遑論拍照。 南禅寺人也多, 只是佔地廣, 山門宏偉, 感覺稍為好一點。以整体楓情而論, 我較喜歡真如堂。真如堂的庭院不收費, 寺的一部份和內庭收拜觀費, 我忙着繞着建築物找心中的紅葉, 没有步上本堂上参觀(要脱鞋子), 更不知有漂亮的內庭呢。失之交臂, 噬臍莫及。

Shinnyodo, Kyoto:  It was on a rainy, chilly morning that we headed to Shinnyodo temple, said to be one of the best temples in Kyoto for fall colors. The temple stands on a hill in eastern Kyoto, the general district where the famous Philosopher’s Path, Eikando, Nazenji, and Ginkakuji share. To most tourists in Kyoto for fall colors, Eikando and Nazenji are must-sees,  however, they have become the victim of their reputation, Eikando is always so crowded, you don’t know where to stand to get out of people’s way. Nanzenji is popular too, but not as crowded. I am not sure if Shinnyodo was shadowed by their famous neighbors or it was due to the rain on the day of our visit, Shinnyodo had a smaller crowd, you could move around easily,  and not a lot of folks blocking your camera.

The premisses of Shinnyodo is free except the paid zone which includes the main hall, the inner chambers and the garden inside. I was so preoccupied with the fall colors outside that it’d never appealed to me to take off my shoes and step up to the main hall.

P1070674-2

P1070656-2

一般旅遊資料會教你由京都站坐五號巴士到「真如堂前」站下車, 跟指示徒步上山。可是此路較為陡峭, 不好走。我們多坐一站, 在「錦林車庫前」下車, 向前走幾步, 到路口轉左, 跟著指示牌走, 過了上面這小溪, 經民居車道上山, 路較緩和, 两旁民居有趣, 不知不覺就到山上。見最後所附之地圖。

Most tour info would tell you to take bus #5 from Kyoto Station and get off at Shinnuodo mae (真如堂前) bus stop, from there it is a 10-15 minute walk. However, they fail to mention that the road leading up to Shinnyodo is kind of steep. I did my home work, we got off the next stop, Sinrin Shako mae(錦林車庫前), instead. We walked a few steps to the intersection and turned left, passed through a stream and followed signs to Shinnyodo. It is an easy route, quiet neighborhood with a lot of interesting things to keep your eyes busy.

_DSC8040-2

回望洛東群山, 其中一个應是大文字山吧. The fall colors on the hills, one of them is called Daimonjiyama.

DSC_2073-2↓ 路上經過民居和日吉神社, 有趣的景物不少。

↓ On the way up, we passed a shrine called Hiyoshi Jinja, 日吉神社.

P1070662-2

P1070665-2

_DSC8033-2

_DSC8044-2

差不多走了十五鐘, 看到這弯路, 後面就是真如堂了。

After may be a 15 min walk, we came to this road and Shinnyodo is around the corner.

P1070688-2

_DSC8058-2

_DSC8060-2↑↓  地蔵菩薩.      The Hall of Jizō Bosatsu, the bodhisattva of the earth.

_DSC8062-2

_DSC8069-2-2

↑↓ 地蔵菩薩.      The Hall of Jizō Bosatsu, the bodhisattva of the earth.

_DSC8072-2-2

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

P1070690-2

↑↓ 手水舎 (chozuya),  水盤舎(suibansha). Purification fountain.

_DSC8251-2-2

_DSC8081-2-2

_DSC8152-2-2

 

_DSC8135-2

塔的對面有小吃店, 掛有あま酒的旗幟。

This small cafe served sake and noodles._DSC8141-2-2

_DSC8181-2↑↓ 漂亮的三重塔。

↑↓ The beautiful Pagoda. 

_DSC8203-2

_DSC8204-2

_DSC8120-2-2塔上之鬼面瓦, 前面的稱一鬼, 後面的稱二鬼。

Ichi-no-oni (the first demon, 一の鬼) and ni-no-oni (the second demon, 二の鬼): Beautiful Onigawara (demon tiles, goblin tiles), tiles depicting Japanese ogre (oni) decorating the roof of the pagoda are said to protect the temple from evil spirits.

P1070700-2

P1070703-2

_DSC8125-2

P1070704-2

_DSC8123-2塔另一角的鬼面瓦, 不同的造形。

Ichi-oni (一の鬼) and ni-no-oni (二の鬼) on the other corner, different design.

_DSC8132-2敷紅葉  Red maple carpet

_DSC8133-2-2

_DSC8189-2

_DSC8190-2↑↓ 石燈籠  Stone lantern

_DSC8192-2

_DSC8195-2

_DSC8197-2

P1070691-2

本堂 Main hall.

_DSC8230-2

↑↓阿彌陀佛: 真如堂本尊是阿弥陀如来.

阿彌陀佛是未來佛, 主管西方極樂世界。維基百科: 「一般祈禱於阿弥陀佛,主要目的在於祈求死後的解脫。漢傳佛教認為,阿弥陀佛主要是以其願力,引渡眾生到極樂世界,脫離苦難的輪迴,故亦號「接引佛」,也因為此佛有無量壽命與光明,亦稱「無量壽佛」、「無量光佛」。」

↑↓ Amida Buddha: Amida Buddha is the ruler of the Western Paradise (Ultimate Bliss -Gokuraku 極楽世界). Amida is said to be the Buddha in the beyond, and is therefore concerned primarily with the life to come.

_DSC8223-2

_DSC8224-2

_DSC8226-2↓ 本堂  Main hall.

_DSC8228-2

_DSC8234-2

_DSC8238-2

_DSC8240-2

P1070706-2

↑↓ 鐘楼。  The bell tower.

P1070708-2

↑↓ 鐘楼。  The bell tower.

P1070719-2

P1070722-2

↑ 鐘的銘文: 銘文用漢語文言書寫, 好些還用古字, 如「寚」字乃寶字之古詞, 勑即敕等。除了一些佛教術語和日本人物外, 並不太難懂。我幾十年没看古文, 但點了句號之後亦不難明, 括號內斜体是我在網上找到的資料, 對比着看, 好像還行。可惜没拍鐘的另一面, 所以就只得半篇。

真正極樂寺   者天台遮那   止觀之法流   也永觀二年   一夕戒算夢    常行堂之彌   陀尊我欲近 京師廣利眾   生時               東三條院所    夢亦同焉厥   後正曆中        勑為               母后冥福建 焉迄今寚曆   八年戊寅凡   七百餘歲矣   其間屢易處    而元祿中徙   於今地神樂   岡邉先是正 …….

加注 [斜體字] 後較易讀 : {真正極樂寺者, 天台遮那、 止觀之法流也 [以止觀(天台)、遮那(密教)兩業爲修學課程,主張圓密一致] 。 永觀二年 [984年] 一夕,  戒算 [比叡山之僧戒算] 夢常行堂 [比叡山延暦寺常行堂] 之彌陀尊, 我欲近京師廣利眾生。  時      東三條院 [東三条院詮子, 一条天皇生母] 所夢亦同焉。 厥後正曆中, 勑[敕]為     母后冥福建焉,  迄今[宝]曆八年 [1758?]  戊寅, 凡七百餘歲矣,  其間屢易處,  而元祿 [1688-1703] 中徙於今地 [應是元禄6年, 1693年] , 神樂岡 [真如堂現址] 邉, 先是正…..}

Inscription on the bell: A piece of writing, The Origin of Shinnyodo, is inscribed on the bell which have been hanging in the bell tower for more than 250 years (?). It is a tradition in Japan to strike such giant temple bell 108 times in the night of New Year’s Eve, just before midnight, to dispel the 108 desires that cause human suffering. As a result, we all leave behind unfortunate experiences, ill luck and welcome in the New Year as a refreshed being. My wife took this series of pictures, she wanted to find out what is written there. The inscription is written in ancient Chinese, it tells the story of why the temple was built. Unfortunately, she didn’t take a photo of the other side of the bell, and I was nowhere to be found at that time, so we only have half of the story.

_DSC8214-2

↑↓ 本堂。  The main hall.

P1070738-2

P1070739-2

P1070740-2這次京都行, 好像每到一處都有些特別的地方令我不斷流連, 因而錯過了好多的景色, 在毘沙門堂是敕使門通道, 在真如堂就是手水舎。我不知道為什麼, 總是為了拍得心中影像, 不斷流連, 結果連鐘樓都沒有參觀呢。那天天色陰暗,  楓葉顏色有點沉, 可是, 没想到就在離本堂後的出口不遠, 天色豁然開朗, 幾束陽光透在楓葉間, 就像仙姬破涕為笑, 頓時整個後園回復生氣, 大家雀躍不已, 貪婪地多拍幾張。那金光的照耀雖然很短暫, 但已令我們領略到真如堂秋色之美, 感恩。

After touring the premisses, we were heading to the exit where most visitors would enter from. That is on the back of the Main Hall where there are a lot of maple trees. When we had almost reached the exit, the sky dramatically opened a bit and golden rays shone on the maple trees. The garden became alive, the colors began to dance, so as our hearts. We pulled out the cameras again, and greedily took a few more and ended the day with a high note. Although that magic moment was not very long, but long enough for us to appreciate the spectacular fall colors in Shinnyo-do. For that, we are truly grateful.

P1070741-29-2

_DSC8217-2-2

_DSC8219-2

1001

_DSC8254-2-2

_DSC8255-10-2

_DSC8257-21-2

_DSC8260-25-2

_DSC8262-2

_DSC8264-2

_DSC8265-1-2

_DSC8268-22-2************************************************************************************

午餐  LUNCH

日出咖喱烏冬麵店在洛東那一區是人氣餐廳, 無論何時, 都是排長長的隊, 而且下午三點関門, 我們吃到的時侯已快三點了。對我來說, 没有覺得太感動, 但郤有新鮮感, 頗特別。下圖標出錦林車庫站位置, 我們在此下車, 循紅色小路上山。下山循綠色小路至大路再徒步至日之出。

Hinobe Curry udon: Hinobe is a popular restaurant in that area, their specialty is curry udon. We arrived around 2:30pm, 30 minutes before their official closing time, and we found ourselves a lot of company in line to get in.The following is a map to show the location of Shinnyo-do and Hinobe Udon. Purple pin is the bus stop we got off and walked to Shinnyo-do (red trail). Those who get off at yellow pin, Shinnyodo-mae, will walk up following the green trail. We followed the green trail down the hill and walked to Hinobe Udon.

Shinnyodo

P1070752-2

P1070754-2↑↓  餐牌 Menu

P1070755-2

P1070757-2

親子烏冬. Chicken and egg udon.

 

P1070760-2

咖喱牛肉烏冬. Curry udon with tofu and beef.

LINKS

京都真如堂官網 Shinnyodo Temple, Kyoto

真正極楽寺 (日文)  Wikipedia – Shinnyodo (Japanese)

Advertisements
This entry was posted in Fall foliage 紅葉, Japan 日夲, Kyoto 京都, Seasons 季節, Temple 廟, Travel 旅遊 and tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , . Bookmark the permalink.

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out /  Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

w

Connecting to %s