西本願寺秋色 Nishihonganji, Kyoto

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御影堂(左), 大銀杏(中), 菊展(右). Miei-do (Main Hall, left), giant gingko (M), chrysanthemum show.

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大銀杏 Giant gingko.

2014 京都の秋 (八)   Autumn in Kyoto (8) 

西本願寺秋色  Nishihonganji, Kyoto

這次京都行到過西本願寺两次。第一次是去島原参觀角屋(稍後登出)時路過, 由於天太陰, 也没拍幾張照就走了。第二天下午, 陽光普照, 再來遊覽。西本願寺没有紅葉, 但境內400歲的大銀杏令人讚嘆, 可惜的是十一月二十三號的秋色仍不是最高峯, 本欲月底離京前再來一次, 但未能如願。我個人最喜歡這裡寬徜的空間, 御影堂雖是室內, 但203榻榻米的空間是相當大, 不但人不擠,好像還有點少呢。阿弥陀門和御影堂門間有「お茶所」, 不收門卷, 還免費奉上熱茶。下面的資料取自維基百科, 有興趣的朋友可看看。

We visited Nishihonganji twice this time to Kyoto. The first time was actually a passing by on our way to Sumiya (角屋) in the nearby old designated courtesans’ district, Shimabara (嶋原or 島原).  The next day, on a sunny afternoon, we came back again and spent a few hours there. Although there are no maple trees in the premisses, Nishihonganji is famous for their giant gingko trees. However, 11/23 was still too early for their peak colors.

維基百科:     西本願寺(にしほんがんじ)是淨土真宗本願寺派的本山,位於日本京都府京都市下京區,正式名稱為龍谷山本願寺。本願寺是淨土真宗最大教派,為親鸞所創,最初本山為1272年(文永9年)所建大谷本願寺,後經歷多次戰亂遷徙,1591年(天正19年)第11任門主顯如得到關白豐臣秀吉支持,將本山遷至現址。1592年第12任門主准如繼任後,教團內部發生繼承紛爭,1602年前繼承人教如得到大名德川家康支持脫離教團,在本寺東側另創真宗本廟,形成東西對立局面。當地人因此習慣將龍谷本願寺稱為「西寺」(お西さん),久之通稱為西本願寺。

Wikipedia:  Nishi Hongan-ji (西本願寺 Nishi Hongan-ji) “Western Temple of the Original Vow” is one of two temple complexes of Jodo Shinshu (浄土真宗) in Kyoto, Japan, the other being Higashi Honganji (東本願寺). Jodo Shinshu is a school of Pure Land Buddhism, and today Nishi Hongan-ji serves as the head temple of the Jodo Shinshu organization. As with many sites in Kyoto, they have more casual names, and are known affectionately in Kyoto as Onissan (お西さん, Dear Mr. West) and Ohigashisan (お東さん, Dear Mr. East).

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西本願寺地图 (見下官網)。Map of Hishihonganji from their official website below.

京都西本願寺 Nishihonganji, Kyoto

Buddhist flag.

佛教旗. Buddhist flag.

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阿弥陀堂門.  Amida Butsu or Amida Gate

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阿弥陀堂。 Amida Hall.

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御影堂前大銀杏. Giant gingko in front of Miei-do .

樹齢約400年之大銀杏。有人稱之為「逆さ銀杏」, 指樹頂之細枝向四周伸展, 似地下根系向天上生長。根據傳說, 亦有人稱之為「水吹き銀杏」, 即噴水銀杏。據傳一次佛堂大火, 銀杏噴水將火撲滅, 故名之。

This 400-year-old gingko is known as Upside Down Gingko (逆さ銀杏) referring to its top branches which resemble the root system that grows to the heaven. This natural monument is also known as the Belching Gingko (水吹き銀杏). According to legend, there was once a fire in Nishihonganji, the fire was put off by the water belching from this gingko.

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菊展: 十一月除了賞楓之外, 亦是賞秋菊的好時節, 二条城境內亦有菊展, 参觀要購券入場。西本願寺則「境內自由」, 免費参觀。

Fall chrysanthemum show: Fall is also the season for chrysanthemum, it is not uncommon to see flower shows held in temples or tourist spots this time of the year. Admission to Hishihonganji’s chrysanthemum show was free.

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御影堂門, 菊展. Miei-do Gate.

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建築  Architecture 

↓    鼓樓上特色的鬼面瓦。The drum tower is adorned with stunning ognigawara.

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↓ 龍虎殿上的鴟尾(しび)- “瓦葺屋根の大棟の両端”, 即屋頂大脊上两端的吻獸, 此日式的稱鯱鉾 或 鯱, 呈虎頭魚身形狀。維基百科: 「吻兽是中国古代建筑的一种脊兽,通常指正吻,又称大吻、吞脊兽,位于房屋正脊两端,也可用于墙脊上。汉朝的柏梁殿上有“鱼虬尾似鸱”的东西,有“避火”之用。鴟尾於唐代傳入百濟,日本於奈良時代從百濟傳入鴟尾,稱為鯱。中國南方的吻獸也保持了魚龍的造型,叫作鰲魚。在粵中,鰲魚一般安置在正脊之上表面,如鯱一般安在正脊兩端的吞脊鰲魚相對少見。」

A shibi (鴟尾) in the form of a shachihoko on the roof ridge of 龍虎殿 . A shachihoko (鯱鉾 or 鯱) or shachi ( ) is an animal in Japanese folklore with the head of a tiger and the body of a carp. It was believed that this animal could cause the rain to fall, and as such, temples and castles were often adorned with roof ornaments crafted in the form of a shachihoko, in order to protect them from fire (Wikipedia).

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龍虎殿上鴟尾. A shibi in the form of a shachihoko.

↓ 御影堂. 寛永13年(1636)建立, 堂內十分廣濶, 東西向45米, 南北向有62米長, 由南至北分五間格, 中央部份(下圖有光亮吊燈處)供奉親鸞聖人之像。

↓ Miei-Do (main hall, built 1636) is huge, the south-north axis is 62m long.  The hall is divided into 5 sections. The middle section, as seen below where the lights are on, that’s the altar where the wooden statue of Shinran(親鸞聖人) is enshrined.

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從東南角內望御影堂。Looking into the hall from the south.

↓ 除了中央部份, 其他部份頗暗,相機感光度需要設在6400,雜訉頗高。下圖所示部分, 在現場實際上看不清, 尤其是上半部, 回到家調整後始看得清楚。

Except the middle section, it was pretty dark inside , I had to set ISO to 6400 to be able to take this pictures, noise level is therefore pretty high.

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大堂最左(南)的第一部份. 1st section on the left (south).

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第二部份, 中央供奉「南無不可思議光如來」. 2nd section.

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中央祭壇(第三部份).  Main altar, 3rd section (middle).

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DSC_7345-2-3-2↑↓ 中央供奉親鸞聖人, 淨土真宗之祖

↑↓ Enshrined in the middle is a statue of Shinran (親鸞聖人). He was the founder of Jodo Shinshu (淨土真宗) Buddhism.

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第四部份, 中供奉「歸命盡十方無碍光如來」.  The 4th section.

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第五部份 (最北, 此部非常暗).  The 5th section (first on the right, north).

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從御影走到阿弥陀堂的通道外望。Looking to the yard from the connection between Miei Hall and Amida Hall.

↓ 阿弥陀堂: 重建於1760年(宝暦10年)。 面積42米 x 45米, 高25, 堂內没有御影堂廣濶, 分成三間 , 中央奉阿弥陀佛 。

↓ Amida Hall: This hall was rebuilt in 1760 (宝暦10年) , it is 42m lengthwise , 20m less than that of the Miei Hall. If my memory serves me well, it is divided into 3 sections only.

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唐門  Karamon gate

我第一次來西本願寺, 就是為了參觀唐門。那是十年前的事, 在網上看到唐門的雕刻,來這裡按圖索驥, 當站在唐門前那一刻, 實在是太感動了。唐門建於桃山時期(1573 – 1614), 是豐臣秀吉伏見桃山城的遺構。採用唐破風式(見下面解釋), 門的两側亦有山牆。整體作浮雕, 門的两面皆精極其美, 只是這邊不能進出, 要看另一邊, 必須回轉至御影堂門繞至外面(北小路通)。

Wikipedia: The Karamon (唐門) is a gate of Nishihonganji designated a National Treasures of Japan. It is constructed as a four-legged gate with karahafu gables (唐破風) of undulating curves on the front and back. The roof is covered by bark shingles made from hinoki cypress. The gate dates to 1573 and was constructed early in the Momoyama period (1573 – 1614).

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This volunteer (in yellow jacket) stand guards at this national treasure during peak tourist season. Where is everybody?

唐破風是指日本特式的門形, 就是簷前橫線成波浪形。此形多用於佛寺寺門, 神社和城堡。

The karahafu (kara-hafu) (唐破風) is a type of gable with a style peculiar to Japan. The characteristic shape is the undulating curve at the top. This gable is common in traditional architecture, including Japanese castles, Buddhist temples, and Shinto shrines. (Wikipedia)

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唐門側面山牆. The side gable of Karamon gate.

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DSC_7152-3↑↓ 唐門一側有大玄關, 是以前主要的出入口。在玄関的對面, 有大建築物, 據說是馬廐, 相等於現在的停車場。

↑↓ The old main entrance is just located next to the Karamon gate, these buildings are standing on the opposite side of the Karamon gate. I have seen signs somewhere that these buildings were the old stables (parking garage in modern term).

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建築特色  Architectural accents

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人物  People

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西本願寺舊工藝: 這两件是陳列在お茶所(奉茶所, 知客處)的两件古工藝, 可能是1999年大修時替換下來的。

Artifacts: there are a few artifacts being displayed in the resting area (really a wonderful place where they serve you a cup of Japanese hot tea, for free) worth checking out.

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應該是殿頂上的瓦片. Very likely an old roof tile.

Year of Bunka 6th (1809)

瓦上刻有大佛瓦師森田前兵衞, 文化六年 (1806). This roof tile was made in 1806.

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没有說明, 應該是樑上斗拱的一部份. Couldn’t find any info about this object.

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非常完整, 可能是舊物翻新, 也可能是新物(?). Obviously, this has been restored.

網頁  LINKS:

京都西本願寺官網 Nishihonganji, Kyoto  website

Wikipedia – Nishihonganji, Kyoto

維基百科- 京都西本願寺

Karamon gate

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This entry was posted in Architecture 建築, Fall foliage 紅葉, Flower 花, Japan 日夲, Kyoto 京都, Temple 廟, Travel 旅遊 and tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , . Bookmark the permalink.

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