2014 京都の秋 (十一) Autumn in Kyoto (11 )
高雄神護寺紅葉 Jingoji, Kyoto
2008年11月14日曾到訪神護寺, 日子上比 2014年這次早了幾天, 當時楓葉還未有太多的紅色, 所以2014年特地晚一些去京都。没想到仍舊沒有看到高峰期, 這次是錯過了, 不但北山如是, 整個京都都如是, 想是氣溫早冷了一些的関係。不過, 儘管如此, 京都就是美, 不管早了些或是晚了些, 京都是淡粧濃抹總相宜。下面加插了幾張2008的照片, 讓大家比較,比較。
Jingo Temple is located on the slope of Mount Takao, northwest of Kyoto. It is a very popular destination for fall colors, and is known to be among the first few places in Kyoto to see the color change. In hope to see the best of colors, we came here the first day, 11/19, after arriving Kyoto. Ironically, we have missed the peak probably by a week (lol!), very likely due to earlier arrival of cold air. The maple trees in front of the romon, the main gate, didn’t have a lot of foliage left on the trees. The sequence of photos shown here are from the hill top where the temple stands, then the tea huts and restaurant below.
將上面Google 圖與高雄巴士站(白箭所指) 外的旅遊圖對照看, 就蛮清楚的。回程時建議不要在原站等車, 因為人太多了。如果你参觀高山寺的話, 就在寺附近停車場前的站等車, 如果不去其他两寺, 最好也沿河前行經過西明寺前行至車道巴士站, 會比神護寺站容易上車, 運氣好的話還會有位子坐呢。
By comparing Goole map above and the walking map below, you would have a better idea of the route to Jingo-ji, and the location of Saimyo-ji and Kozen-ji. One should get off at the bus stop (see white arrow below), go downhill to the bridge and turn left, climb the stairs to Jingoji. Google map shows a zigzag trail to Jingoji.
神護寺站下車後, 第一段路是下山, 頗陡的路。到河邊前, 有小賣店, 紅葉季他們會賣紅葉天婦羅。不敢試, 葉的纖維太多吧….
The first leg from the bus station is down hill, the path going down to the river is pretty steep. Before the bridge, there is a shop selling local produces and an “interesting” seasonal snack – deep fried momiji (red maple leaf). Well, I don’t think it is my cup of tea.
Wikipedia: Jingo-ji (神護寺?) is a Buddhist temple in Kyoto. It stands on Mount Takao to the northwest of the center of the city. The temple adheres to Shingon Buddhism. Its honzon is a statue of Yakushi Nyorai, the Buddha of Healing or “Medicine Buddha”.
The temple was established in the year 824, as a merger of two private temples founded earlier by Wake no Kiyomaro. They were the Jingan-ji (神願寺) in Kiyomaro’s home province and the Takaosan-ji (高雄山寺).
↑ 在橋上左邊就是往神護寺的路, 堤邊餐廳在河的石上擺多的日式”餐桌”, 甚有氣氛。
↑ On the bridge across the Kiuyotaki River, one can see the “dinning benches/platforms” set on the river bed next to the running water.
神護寺位於高雄山上, 上山的梯級不少, 有幾段還頗陡峭的, 加上很多梯級是石砌的, 大小不一, 路不太好走。Tripadviser 網頁上有外國遊客撰文建議老弱者勿去云云。我非年青體健之輩, 且背不少攝影器材, 不過由於迂迴戰術, 且戰且拍照, 走起來也不難。由河邊至神護寺, 中間山坡大致有三个平台, 最下面那个較小, 有一小店賣些飲料, 第二平台上有高雄茶室, 頗大。第三平台建有硯石軒, 相當大, 頗多日式座墊供坐下用餐。我們的迂廻戰術是指每到一處, 都停下來, 拍拍斜坡上的紅葉, 跟本不覺得在爬坡。由硯石軒上樓門那一段比較陡, 但走幾級又拍拍照, 也就不累。
Jingoji stands on the top of the Takao hill, there are a lot of stairs to climb. If you are like most of the folks who go all the way to the top, the climb would likely to spoil your spirit, I have seen quite a few reviews in Tripadviser discouraging those who are less capable from going there. We are not young and carrying heavy cameras, so we took a different strategy. Below the temple, there are roughly 3 terraces, there is a tea hut or restaurant on each terrace. There are a lot of maple trees stand on the slope between these terraces. The red maples made these places very scenic and atmospheric. We zigzagged between the the second and third terraces, admiring the colors and taking pictures. The last legs to the temple is perhaps the steepest section, again, we took frequent breaks to take pictures, by the time we reached the romon (the main gate), we were still in very good shape.
I didn’t take picture of the first terrace where there is only a small area with a shop selling drinks. I also tried to refrain from taking pictures of the long, steep staircase with folks struggling for obvious reasons.
↑ After touring the temple, we ate here at Suzuriishi-tei, 硯石亭. It was lunch time and a bit chilly, nothing was better than a bowl of hot noodle soup. ↓ Nishin soba is known to be a Kansai or Kyoto dish. it is a bowl of noodles topped with ‘migaki nishin’ (dried Pacific herring). To my untrained taste buds, the taste is just OK, but it has became my own ritual to have this local dish every time I visit Kyoto.
↑↑ 2014 年的樓門(=山門)前的楓樹, 大部份已秃了, 只剩下右方這枝紅葉.
↑↑ Romon (the main gate), 2014. Most of the maple leaves were shed, this one was pretty much the last tree with foliage left.
↓↓ 下面放上2008 的樓門, 那時尚暖, 葉才開始轉黃, 樓門前楓樹有一樹三色的美景。
↓↓ The following three photos show the romon on November 14, 2008, at early season of fall colors.
Yakuyoke plate (amulet plate), made of clay, visitors purchase these plates and throw out from the famous cliff, Kinunkei (錦雲峡), overlooking Kiuyotaki River (清滝川)
↑ 「かわらけ投げ」kawarakenage is an activity said to have originated here in Jingoji. In front of Jizo-in (the Hall of Bodhisattva of Earth) is an open area near the cliff, Kinunkei (錦雲峡), overlooking Kiuyotaki River (清滝川). Visitors buy a couple of these clay plates, make a wish and “attach” whatever misfortunate or bad luck they want to get rid of to a plate, and throw it as hard as they can, down the chasm to the Kiuyotaki River below, the plate carries one’s bad karma away and everybody will live happily ever after.