京都角屋美術館 Sumiya Museum, Kyoto

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2014 京都の秋 (十四)   Autumn in Kyoto (14)

角屋接待文化美術館     角屋もてなしの文化美術館

Sumiya Motenashi Cultural and Art Museum – Kyoto

京都最古の花街散策: 多年前曾遊金澤市花街的茶屋, 有如時光倒流, 有意思, 所以一直都想來看看京都島原的角屋。2014京都紅葉之旅, 寺院等紅葉名所人山人海, 周末更是萬頭鑽動, 所以在行程安排上費思量。11月23日是周日, 於是就跟大家背道而馳, 不去看紅葉, 特地跑到角屋來, 結果運氣好, 人不多, 能安靜悠閑地参觀。角屋位於島原內, 在西本願寺的西面。島原是幕府時代官定三大遊廓之一。角屋由於位於島原遊廓中, 常被誤認為是普通花街茶室, 其實角屋乃揚屋, 是當時文人雅士, 政治人物, 舉行聚會、飲宴之場所, 非一般茶室可比。島原自1970年代以來, 就在京都花街名錄上除名, 有趣的是, 直至今天, 角屋附近還有一間輪違屋 (wachigaiyaわちがいや) 在營運。輪違屋亦即置屋, 乃向茶室提供妓藝和太夫(頂級妓藝) 的商號。

Strolling the oldest hanamachi (花街) in Kyoto: Most of the temples in Kyoto are crammed with leaf peepers during the foliage season in November, especially on weekends. When we were planning itinerary for 11/23/2014 (Sunday), we wanted to schedule something off the beaten path and yet it was something we would really enjoy. Sumiya did surely fit the bill. Sumiya, which is now known as Sumiya Motenashi Cultural and Art Museum, was an ageya in Shimabara. It is said to be a fine extant example of Edo Period (1603-1868) ageya architecture  (motenashi =もてなし= entertainment; ageya = 揚屋 = salon).

Located in Shimabara which was one of the three designated courtesans’ districts (yukaku 遊廓) in Japan.  Sumiya was an elegant dining facility “where banquets and dinner parties were held accompanied by the entertainment of geisha and taiyu (premiere geisha)”. It also served as a meeting place for artists, intellectuals, and political figures of its time. The ageya architectural style combines shoin-tsukuri(書院造) and sukiya-tsukuri (数寄屋造り) features, meaning that it was able to both an elegant, formal, spacious, ostentatious mansion-like settings and at the same time a delicate, refined but informal atmosphere for its guests.  Shimabara is no longer on the list of Kyoto hanamachi (花街) since 1970s. However, interestingly enough Shimabara still has one operating wachigaiya (輪違屋わちがいや, geisha and taiyu supplier) which is not open to the general public.

DSC_7164-2↑↓島原大門, 京都花街島原的東面入口。

↑↓Shimabara Gate: This is the eastern gate of the designated yukaku area.                           ↓  Water storage tank with buckets stacked up for fire protection. 

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DSC_7162-2↑↓ 島原內仍可見舊式的町家屋和老式商店。

↑↓ Old merchant houses and shops can still be found inside the Shimabara neighborhood.

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DSC_7284-2↓ 角屋外觀, 原來的入口在圖中央處, 現在博物館的入口在左方。

↓ The exterior of Sumiya. The formal entrance, now closed, is in the middle.

DSC_7172-2美術館現分两部份展出, 一楼部份在每日開放時間隨時参觀。二楼部份則採預約制, 由專人带領参觀, 二楼禁止攝影, 加上我們日語不靈光, 去了等於白去, 所以只参觀一楼。一楼的展覧廳亦不能拍照, 所以只拍得厨房的小量展品。角屋一年有五個月閉館, 有興趣的朋友請查官網, 見後。

Exhibition is divided in two sections, first floor welcomes visitors 10am-4pm while guided tour to second floor is by appointment only (4 per day). Please note that Sumiya museum only open seven months in a year, please check their website (below) for details.

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角屋外觀, 左方為原出入口。

  Old Guests’ entrance, seen on street.

DSC_1955-2↑↓  原出入口內觀, (上)暖簾後的大門, (下)暖簾前的玄関

↑↓ The interior of the old guests’ entrance. Behind the noren (above), in front of the noren (below).

P1070347-2  現在的入口。

↓  Current museum entrance.

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↓ 從左面入口處進入後,交費, 然後要把背包放入儲物櫃才可進入厨房, 原來的門口不開放。就在厨房入口處見到講解人員, 我先用日語 告知不懂日語, 此女士十分熱心, 她用有限的英語和我有限的日語溝通 (很困難呢!)。她郤很熱心東指西指的給我看玄関附近的冰窖, 角屋的家徽, 新選組成員留下的刀痕等等。我被带得昏頭轉向, 所以這一部份的記憶不是很清楚。

 I was a bit disoriented after being greeted by the museum guide on duty, she was so enthusiastic to show us around, the heraldry, the sword mark, the ice cellar… I was running around like a headless chicken. My recollection of the entrance area may not be accurate.

DSC_7190_1_4_tonemapped-2↑ 在天井那裡, 講解員向上指指, 加一串日語, 只好先拍照回來再做功課, 猜想她是想告訴我两旁的槐樹(えんじゅ), 據說樹齡有二百歲, 仍然存活。

↑ The museum guide pointed up there and tried to show me something interesting, no clue what she was talking at that time. Took this picture, came home and found out that she was probably trying to show us these two 200-year-old pagoda trees  (槐, えんじゅ).

↓槐樹上的靈芝.   Ganoderma grown on one of the two pagoda trees.

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P1070348-2↑ 带有家徽的消防水箱。

↑ Water tank for fire protection.

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←↑ 玄関的方柱有武士刀留下的刀痕 (刀傷), 據說是新選組, 幕府組織的特別警備, 某成員留下的。當知道不能再賒帳時, 老羞成怒, 用刀劈柱洩憤。

←↑ A sword mark from a katana was left by a disgruntled member of Shinsengumi (新選組), special police force organized by the Bakufu (幕府), when he found out that he was not allowed to run up tabs at Sumiya.

 

 

 

 

DSC_1960-2↑↓ 講解員熱心地指出各處的家徽。

↑↓ The museum guide enthusiastically pointed out every single heraldry to us.

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DSC_7175-2↑↓  玄関附近角落有一冰窖, 前方木箱型構造應為日式小轎。

↑↓  At a corner near the entrance area, there is an ice cellar (right). The wooden structure sits at the far end is probably a Japanese sedan.

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冰窖.  The ice cellar.

DSC_7283-2 台所 (厨房)。原來揚屋的設計是二楼待客, 一楼為厨房和工作人員的活動地方。後來擴展, 一楼成有網代の間和松の間两大饗宴廰。厨房佔地甚廣。

Kitchen. The door to the left is the preparation and cooking area, step up to the right is the cashier and a door that leads to the guest’s entrance.

P1070350-2台所:  厨房一角, 出納所在。

↑ A close-up of right section of the kitchen. The right hand corner is the cashier counter.

P1070355-2↑ 帳場 = 出納/會計

↑ The cashier’s counter.

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← 出納後的門口出去即為客人進出口, 此刀掛就置在牆上, 客人進入後, 把刀放在刀掛上, 工作人員將之紀錄, 並放入台所門内的刀櫃內保存。

 

← This sword hanger is actually on the wall just outside the kitchen, on the other side of the cashier’s counter. Guests arrived would put down their swords on the hanger, and the swords would be labelled and securely stored in the sword cabinet stands next to the door inside the kitchen, ↓shown below.

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刀櫃.  The sword cabinet, the doorway on the right is the guests’ entrance.

P1070364-2神棚 – 日本神道的小神龕。

A small domestic altar, known as kamidana (神棚) which is a miniature household altars provided to enshrine a Shinto kami.

P1070363-2 箱階段

Step chest.

P1070351-2  巨型飯鍋。

  A giant rice cooker.

P1070352-2角屋提供大型饗宴, 新以厨房甚大, 不難想像當時的盛况。

The kitchen is pretty big, right hand side, traditional stove with cauldrons.

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Kitchen, left hand side, the washing area.

DSC_7203-2現代的参觀路綫是入厨房灶台旁進入下足棚, 放好鞋子始可步上左方台上。

↑ Taken at the back of the kitchen, we had to take off our shoes at this point and step up to the wooden floor to walk in the rooms.

DSC_7197-2↑↓  屋頂上有通氣窗, 透出炊煙。這裡可看清楚房子的結構。

↑↓ The vent at the roof of the kitchen.

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DSC_1948-2↑ 灶台   ↑ Stove

網代の間(あじろのま) The Hall of Ajiro (Weaving)

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DSC_7281-2↑↓ 網代の間(あじろのま): 天花板作網型編織, 故名網代の間。此廳二十八畳大(~500 平方呎)。以前用臘燭照明, 所以將天花薰得黑黑的。

↑↓ The first hall, Ajironoma あじろのま,  the first hall beyond the sword rack and drawer. This room is really dark, I had to use ISO 6400 and hold my breath to take these few pictures.

DSC_7276-2此處壁画為唐子圖, 但歲月的侵蝕, 加上燈光昏暗, 令人難以看清。

The painting on the wall is about small children, it has faded drastically, partly attributed to the soot deposition from candle burning.

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DSC_7261-2中庭(なかにわ)

DSC_7256-2↑↓ 中庭 The inner garden.

DSC_2017-2↑  水井.  A well.

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「松の間」  Hall of Pine

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 岸良筆「布袋図」  Hotai.

DSC_1977-2↑↓ 岸良筆「布袋図」的畫框十分豪華, 有雲龍嵌貝。

↑↓ The wooden frame of the painting Hotoi is embedded with mother of pearl, in the form of dragon.

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DSC_7210-2↑↓ 薩摩剛毅書之「蓬壷生春酒」

↑↓ The Hall of Pine.

DSC_7224-2 ↑↓ 松の間, 據說是因為前庭「臥龍松の庭」而得名。此室無任何有關松的美術品, 除了…

↑↓ The Hall of Pine. It was so called for the pine tree (called Crouching Dragon Pine) in the garden. The room itself doesn’t have any artwork about pine except…

DSC_7218-2… 右方一小塊松之窗。解說員稱此乃按松葉 Y 型而設計。

…this pine window . The museum guide said that most windows in traditional Japanese houses are lattice window, and this one was designed in the shape of pine needles – Y shape. Adult pine leaves are known as needle, bundled in cluster of 1-6.

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387-388-389pan1-2臥龍松の庭。

Overlooking the garden of Crouching Dragon Pine.

DSC_1990-2 臥龍松, 也許原來的松是一株向右延伸, 但現在整株似由2-3株松樹組成, 待考。

The Crouching Dragon Pine (臥龍松) refers to the pine(s) that grows horizontally. However, as shown above, there are at least 2-3 pines in the formation(?).

DSC_7241_3_5_tonemapped-2 臥龍松の庭右前方為茶室之「曲木亭」和「清隠斎茶席」。

In the back (right) of the garden, there is a tea house.

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DSC_7229-2「松の間」西面小廊外有亭和遊仙橋

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************************************************************************************厨房內有一角展出些舊物, 這裡可以攝影。

In display: At a corner in the kitchen, there are some artifacts in display, photography was allowed there.

古文書: 1866年九月 – 新選組掛壳禁止

Old document: September 1866.

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DSC_2000-2↑ 會計帳本。

↑ Accountant’s journal.P1070367-2

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↑↓ A list of artworks in each room (only a small portion of the artworks are being shown)

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P1070365-2 西郷 隆盛 使用過之木盆

 A wooden basin used by Saigo Takamori (西郷 隆盛 )

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網頁  LINKS:

Architecture of Sumiya

Sumiya Motenashi Cultural and Art Museum – Kyoto

Sumiya Museum – Kyoto (in Japanese)

Architecture of Sumiya

角屋

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