After a temple-hopping day the day before, Manuha Temple was the only monastery visited on our second day in Bagan. I knew nothing about this temple before visiting, the temple does not appeared, to my untrained eyes, to have shared the architecture style of most of the temples we had visited the day before.
在蒲甘的第一天, 我們訪問了六間寺院, 而蒲甘的第二天, 只安排了遊馬努哈寺。馬努哈寺外觀與前一天所見的四方形建構稍有不同, 像是長方形的。寺中有两坐佛, 而坐佛背後的拜殿, 供有一尊20米長的大臥佛。當步入中間大殿的一刻,很快就感覺其中的不同。
I love the handsome mini pagodas, each crowned with a spired final ornament known as the hti, with on top of the roof.
The first hall we walked in was cramped with a gigantic seating Buddha (two-storey high). There is barely a walkway enough for single-file pedestrian.
大殿中供有两層樓高的大佛, 佛像的體積幾乎充滿整個大殿的空間, 壓迫感撲面而來。另一較小的坐佛及大卧佛殿亦是一樣, 空間與巨大佛像極不相稱，容納佛像的殿顯得非常狹小，明顯給人有被壓得喘不過氣來的感覺。
⇑ 上圖顯示佛陀結觸地印的右手手指與牆壁之間狹窄, 僅容一人側身而過。
⇑ This picture shows the passageway between the fingers of the Lord Buddha’s fingers (in a Bhumisparsha mudra, or Victory mudra or “the earth witness” mudra) and the wall, barely enough for one person to pass through.
It turned out the other seated Buddha image and the reclining Buddha image are also as big as the halls they are housed. I am not sure if this is the only monastery that incorporated this “design”, anyhow, it is definitely the first of its kind that I have ever seen. There is actually an interesting story about why this temple was built in such a unique way (see below).
後來看了建寺的历史, 也就明白本寺的獨特性。馬努哈寺是孟族國王Manuha於1059年建造的。他當時是被俘虜的孟族國王, 被囚困於蒲甘。他被容許興建一佛寺, 據說國王Manuha把佛像建成與拜殿同大, 佛像前的空間僅容一人通過。碩大的佛像在無法轉身的空間中, 國王欲表達的抑壓、鬱悶之情也就不言而喻了。
Wikipedia: Manuha Temple (Burmese: မနူဟာဘုရား) is a Buddhist temple built in Myinkaba (located near Bagan), by captive Mon King Manuha in 1067, according to King Manuha’s inscriptions. It is a rectangular building of two storeys. The building contains three images of seated Buddhas and an image of Buddha entering Nirvana. Manuha Temple is one of the oldest temples in Bagan.
About the same time Makuta, captive king of the Thaton Kingdom (his name is now corrupted into ‘Manuha’), must have built his colossal images at Myinpagan, where he was living in captivity, a mile S. of Pagan. “Stricken with remorse”, says the Glass Palace Chronicle, “he built a colossal Buddha with legs crossed, and a dying Buddha as it were making pariniruâna; and he prayed saying ‘Whithersoever I migrate in samsâra, may I never be conquered by another!’ The temple is called Manuha to this day.
⇑ 孟族國王 Manuha 和王后 Ningala Devi。
⇑ Statues of King Manuha and his wife, Queen Ningala Devi.
It is said that the reclining Buddha enshrined here is too tight to give the exposure of the feelings of King Manuha. 卧佛涅槃的做像, 嘴角一絲笑容恐怕就是國王祈望的解脱。